Reminiscing Sun Junkie - Part II "Dragonflies & Flutter-by's"

= June 29th, 2011 =

At the pool in Faralya there's a small sun-baked child who's playful, lithpy baby-talk catches my attention.  He can't be more than two years and is saying something about going down to "Flutter-by Valley."  What he means is the Mediterranean beach-and-hippy-camp that lies below the steep cliffs on which our hotel rests.  It's called Butterfly Valley, but his name for the place is far better.

We've been resting here in Southwestern Turkey for a few days now, and could not have landed in a more splendid location.  In order to really get an idea of how cool this place is, I'll have to describe the Turkish Riviera for those who've never been there.  From Marmaris down to Orludeniz is a playground for sun-starved Brits to come git their hedonism on.  The developers moved in sometime in the '70's and most of this area is now bars, clubs and resorts.  However, for those who've gotten that out of their system and prefer to hang & swim in more peaceful, natural beauty, the white knuckle bus-ride on the cliffs stretching 20 miles South of Orludeniz presents other options: Faralya & Kabak.  There are camps and home-resorts there as well, but not the bars & discos blaring obnoxious music 24/7.

Getting down to Butterfly Valley from Faralya ain't for the timid.  It is a steep, careful scramble down maybe 500 feet of sometimes sheer-rock face to get to the beach, but it is sooooooo worth the effort, and you feel like you've earned the swim more than all the folks who take boat-rides from Northern harbours to get there.  The place we're staying is back on top of the cliffs ~ it's called George House, and you have to book in advance during summer high season, 'cause word is spreading.  It's a family-run hotel, and most of the family doesn't even speak English, but their heart-felt kindness puts me in the mood to communicate with gestures & broken Turkish.  Their house is large, and spaces open to guests include a library, about 6 rooms with showers & A/C, in addition to the campsites and a dozen outdoor cabins.  Their large terrace is nothing short of Paradise, in fact, it's where I want to go when I die.  They also have a huge vegetable garden (from which they take veg for our evening meal) and swimming pool with a sundeck.  And did I mention, the family is just so nice?  If you need a reason to go to Faralya, there it is!  Aside from swimming, the region is bursting with lush greenery and cedar forests with dozens of miles of hiking trails.

Where the late-comers sleep

My heaven

Fresh veg!

Persephone

The roof of George House peekin' at us

Sunset from the cliffs over Flutter-by Valley

Cool Sunset shots

Grainy Close-up of Flutter-by Valley camp taken from the cliffs

Flutter-by Valley cliffs at sunset

The Same Flutter-by Valley Cliffs at Noonish

Our Secret Cove

Roof of an ancient tomb

This is what happened when the workers decided to go to the beach for beers instead of finish the tomb

A little further South of Faralya is Kabak, which beach I actually prefer to Butterfly Valley.  It's more removed and there are hidden coves to be discovered where we swim in crystal blue water, so clear that I can see the rocks 30 feet below.  Also, the number of Turks far outnumber the Europeans.  Not that there's anything bad about hanging out with 'whitey,' but if the natives flock there on vay-cay, you know the place is worth a visit.

Myback at Kabak

Kabak Beach

"Mama Mia!  Here I go again.."

 Back at the pool in Faralya, one of the guests has just learned that I grew up in Texas, and wants me to use the accent and tawk like a cowboy.  As I lean back on the sunbed and begin to pull the hat over my eyes to enhance the production, I notice two of the biggest, most colorful dragonflies I have ever seen.  They proceed to mate on the pool water and I wonder if they've come here from Orludeniz.

I just got lucky!